Mary Ann’s birthday with the Masai
Today was Mary Ann’s birthday and the birthday angels rewarded us with a marvelous game drive. We went out early and the critters large and small had all decided it would be a good idea to display themselves. Even Mount Kilimanjaro made an appearance.
The birds were particularly displaying themselves this morning.
Plus we saw herds of everything from Baboons to Zebras. I’ll get to that and show some pictures in a while. Bear with me while I tell you about visiting the Masai village.
The village was straight out of a National Geographic documentary. The houses were arranged in a circle. Each one was identical. They were made of cow dung. The entire village was surrounded by a fence about 8 feet high and six feet thick made from some very thorny bush called a whistling thorn bush. They do this to keep marauding animals out at night. The men make the fences, and the women build the houses.
We were invited into a house. It had three rooms. The parents (mama and papa) slept in one room, all the children in another, and the third room was for cooking and eating. The cooking was done over a charcoal fire, or maybe a dung fire.
There was an interior fence, as imposing as the exterior fence. This serves as a corral for the cattle at night, as well as for the goats. Cattle and goats are the mainstay of the economy and the diet of the Masai.
The entire village it seemed came out to greet us with a traditional dance and song number which of course included the vertical leaping of both men and women. They made me join the chorus line and had a good laugh at me trying to go vertical. I think these guys could stand flat footed under a basketball hoop and dunk. But they don’t play basketball. In fact I did not see any evidence of any sport. Making a living following around herds of domesticated animals protecting them from numerous predators must be sporting enough. Many of them had the brand on their cheeks. Tough hombres. Also, living in an Arab nation, and traveling a lot in Asia, India, and Nepal, I have gotten used to being the tallest guy in any room, at 6:1. Not here. I feel like a twelve year old hanging out around NBA players.
Our Masai guide around the village was the son of the chief. His name was John. As he talked to us I noticed a wonderful bracelet he was wearing. I asked him what it was made of. He said Elephant bone. I started to like it even more. I had on a silver and turquoise ring I picked up in India a few months back. I wore it on this trip because I was not attached to it, and if it got lost or stolen I would not think twice about it. I offered to trade him my ring for his bracelet. He did not want to talk about it in front of the other Masai men, and he simply said “later.” I did not know if that were a hip blow off like “later dude” or “we’ll talk later”.
Then they showed us how they make fire. They use a twig from an Acacia tree “from mount Kilimanjaro” and a stick from a cypress tree. Basically they do it like American Indians, or boy scouts. The men make fire every evening for cooking and the women come and take burning twigs home to light the charcoal.
Then they asked me if I wanted to try. They made a little pyre of the dried dung they us as kindling and gave me the sticks. I sat down in front of it and pulled out my lighter. I said “White mans magic” ‘ We all got a good laugh.
Then they took us around a corner where every woman in the village had stuff for sale. The Masai do a lot of things with beads. Where do they get the beads? Well, we did not get a good answer. It was a bit complicated to ask if they come from China, so I dropped that line of questioning. We bought a few doodads. My favorite was an ivory ring from an elephant tusk. I know I know, but if you could see how many elephants there are in Amboseli, and were realistic about them dying out in the swamps of old age, then I have no problem with the natives taking the tusks and doing something with them to make a buck. Later in the week I asked a park ranger “if an elephant dies of old age in the park, is it OK to harvest the tusks?”. The answer was an absolute no. So, I asked “what happens to them?”. She told me that all the tusks are brought to the ranger’s office in the park and stored away. I understand that, you do NOT want ivory on the market. But hell, Kenya could probably go a long way to paying off their national debt by selling the ivory. Anyway, I love the ring.
When I put it on, I took off my turquoise ring and walked over to John.
“Ok let us talk trade” I said. He had already tried my ring on and not only did it fit, I could tell from the look on his face that he liked it.(Masai have never developed a poker face?) I figured it was because it would be unique in his tribe. I started thinking of the concept of a cargo cult or the movie “The Gods Must Be Crazy”. (Google either one to get my point) He said to me “This was my Grandfather’s bracelet.” I figured that was bullshit, so I said back “This was my Grandfather’s ring. He traded with a Navajo chief in Arizona for it 80 years ago.” I am sure we both knew we were BSing the other but it took him about two seconds to take off the bracelet and take my ring. SCORE!
I asked Gideon if he knew another person was a Masia just by looking at him. First he said the Masai are usually tall and thin. They walk so much that you seldom if ever see an overweight Masai. He told me two more things to look for. Masai sometimes pierce their earlobes and wear heavy ear adornments that make a huge gap in the earlobe. I had noticed that. The other thing to look for was a missing front bottom tooth. There is a sickness Masai infants sometimes get that does not allow them to open their mouth to eat. They pull the center tooth out so they can force feed them porridge. I now find myself looking for the missing tooth.
When we got back to the lodge and finished dinner, we walked outside under the stars. Mary Ann mentioned how beautiful they were. It dawned on me to look for the Southern Cross. I looked to where Kilimanjaro was, due south of us and looked up. There it was bright and beautiful, right over the tallest mountain in Africa. It was thrilling to have that experience. The Southern Cross is a wonderful sight from wherever you see it, but it was pretty special to know the mountain was right under it. My trip to Africa became even more real.
Ok Ok you want pictures of animals. Here we go.
Asante for reading. Please tell a friend and make a comment. The next post will concentrate on birds. See ya soon.
Posted on June 12, 2011, in Africa, Uncategorized and tagged Africa, Amboseli National Park, elephants, Grey Crowned Crane, Hyena, ivory, Kenya, lioness, Masai, Masai village, Michigan State University Hyena Study, Uncategorized, wildebeests. Bookmark the permalink. 3 Comments.